But on to more interesting things. Last night after I finished my post, I went to Vespers as promised. What a treat - those monks are polished in their delivery of the mass, and have beautiful voices. Following Vespers, I had dinner with 3 peregrinos I have seen on an off for the last couple of weeks. We had a super meal together and exchanged photo ops and email addresses, as people are prone to do on the Camino.
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Santiago de Compostela Km 0
But on to more interesting things. Last night after I finished my post, I went to Vespers as promised. What a treat - those monks are polished in their delivery of the mass, and have beautiful voices. Following Vespers, I had dinner with 3 peregrinos I have seen on an off for the last couple of weeks. We had a super meal together and exchanged photo ops and email addresses, as people are prone to do on the Camino.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Sobrado dos Monxes Km 62
Monday, June 14, 2010
Dry in Vilalba Km 120
Friday, June 11, 2010
Tapia de Casariego KM 206
By the time I got to the Albergue in Cadavedo, I was a pathetic sight. But I was bouyed (no pun intended) by the reception I got from my fellow peregrinos, who welcomed me with a great cheer. The weather let up long enough for a group of us to visit the mini super market without drowning, where we bought the makings of a fine meal. Joachim from Barcelona whipped it all up, and soon we were enjoying a tasty salad, fresh bread and beer (wine for most of them but beer for me). The Albergue itself was very basic, and could use a good cleaning, but I was happy to be there, out of the rain and in very nice company. There were 8 of us who stayed there; two women from Czech, four Spaniards, including Frederico from Mallorca, an Italian, and me.
We arrived at the Albergue, an old schoolhouse, around 3:30 pm. There was one other person there - a young german man. Eventually, two others arrived, also, german, and the clotheslines strung around the dormitory made it look like a little shanty town. I had a great sleep and felt preapared for anything this morning.
By end of day today, the weather was not quite as bad; the rain actually let up for a few minutes here and there. The interesting thing about the rain is that my feet are enjoying it immensely. They have been perfectly happy, sloshing about in the cool water that has invaded my shoes. Who would have guessed? I hope to be able to dry some clothing tonight. I believe the Albergue here has an oven so you can guess I´m going to try and be creative with that. Wish me luck drying and not burning, my clothes!
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Magdallena
Monday, June 7, 2010
Aviles KM 326
My day started with me being distracted and became progressively difficult from there. I left the hotel I was staying at, forgetting my map and credencial (Pilgrim´s Passport) and had to double back about 1.5 km through the Monday morning traffic of Gijon to get them. Then I got lost trying to leave the city. It was at this point I noticed how unfriendly the people were - it happens in cities - but eventually I was saved by a nice Argentian man who saw me scrutinising my map and came to point me in the right direction.
The city quickly became an industrial zone and the road beside me with busy with big trucks belching out diesel fumes. Then a local man walking ahead of me began vomiting blood. I stopped to ask him if he was alright and he said he was, but I somehow I doubt it... Walking at the side of the road felt particularly dangerous today as the traffic whizzed past me due to the fact that I was forced to walk on the right hand side of the road, with the traffic behind me. Its much safer to be able to see whats coming in case you need to jump into the ditch, but this was not an option as there was no shoulder on the left side for much of the time.
The day went on much like this. So, by the time I got to Aviles, my ears were ringing with the traffic and industrial noise, my feet were complaining bitterly, I smelled like an old truck from fumes and I was completely frazzled. At the Albergue - and yes, I am staying there tonight - the Hospitalero caught me crying and he immediately put his hand on my face to dry my tears and gave me a kiss on both cheeks. He went and got me a special sheet for my bunk - the others don´t have one - and a blanket to make sure I am warm tonight... He must have realised that I am a Peregrina Princess! Now, how can you feel badly when there is this type of care? So there, I´m all cheered up again.
Tomorrow is a major up and down hike - up 200 metres, down 150 metres, up 200 metres, down 200 metres and so it goes... And it is 35 - 40 km long to the next town with an Albergue. Not that this part is important to me, but, if I want to make it to Santiago by the 17th of June, I have to put myself in high-gear for the next 10 days. This means walking at least 30 km a day. I think I can do it, but I am also resolved to the fact that I may not be able to pull it off. Getting a Compostella (certificate of acheivement more or less) is not that important to me.
Today was rich for lessons, but the thing that keeps coming home to me is the need for acceptance of what is. In other words, I can´t control what is going on around me - only how I deal with it. This is a big one - enough to last me the rest of my days here,and possibly a lifetime.
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Gijon KM 350.5
Hello from beautiful Gijon! Its been a couple of days since I have been able to post anything, but I think I needed a little break from writing as I was feeling a little blocked. Now I have lots to say, but little time to say it in!
Going up 400 metres en route to Gijon
Camino Real
Soaking tired feet at the Hotel Pasaje
Now that my feet have had some pampering the in bidet, I am ready to further explore this pretty city. Tomorrow I am walking just 21.5 km to Aviles, where there is reportedly a truly special Albergue, which I do plan to stay in. Until next time...
Friday, June 4, 2010
Ribadesella
A bit of Spanish Cheer
Thursday, June 3, 2010
Barro
The scenery was nothing short of spectacular today but I don´t want to stretch the boundaries of kindness by uploading photos here at the hotel, so the images will have to wait. I took the coastal trail which added 5 or 6 km to the walk, but it was really the only real way to go, I am sure. Incredible stretches of dramatic coastline, blowholes, rivers with wooden foot bridges, ancient churches, nuns in black habits playing soccer on the beach - yes its true - it goes on and on.
Soccer at the beach
It was much warmer today, as the sun was out from early on. I did not want to push my feet too hard in the heat and stopped here in Barro at about 3:30 pm, where there is a nice beach to sit on and the water is warm for swimming. I didn´t go in - one of the downsides of being on your own is that there is no one to leave your stuff with.
A point of interest. I have noticed that I don´t want to eat as much when I am walking a lot. At home, I eat all day and even when I exercise for a short time, I am hungry. In fact, anyone who knows me will know that I am always hungry. Why is it that I can walk all day here and not want to eat much? I´m not unhappy about it but it is somewhat baffling. I have polled some of the other peregrinos, who say the same thing. Any ideas?
Lesson today - no lesson, just enjoy whats in front of me.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Pendueles KM 436
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
San Vincente
What an amazing walk today! Almost entirely on trail or minor roads, the views were superb and the towns I passed through so lovely. It seemed like every time I turned a corner, my jaw dropped, yet again. And the people - so nice. Many stopped to say "Buen Camino" or ask where I was from. They are always surprised to see that I am travelling alone. I don´t think many women travel alone in this part of the world.
In fact I walked a part of the day with Gunter, a retired Electronic Technologist from Cologne. His guide indicated an alternative beach route, which was very nice, though my shoes were filled with sand. Still, this is exfoliating for the feet, and this is a good thing... At the moment, I am starving and need to go and eat something. So, this is to be continued later on.
Right, I´m back and full of Tortilla (like a Frittata) but very tired and looking forward to a nap on my bunkbed in the room with 17 other people. Photos to follow, but not of the other people napping. Gosh, I´m tired! Anyhow, San Vincente is a very old town - one of the main ports of old years. Here, two rivers flow into the sea, and as such there two very long bridges to cross into the town. Here at the Albergue (like a youth hostel with mostly older folk -like me), we are in the ancient area of the town, and a large citadel looms just above the building here. When you see these old cobblestone streets and ancient buildings, you get such a strong sense of history. It reminds me that Canada is really quite young, at least in cultural terms.
This evening should be nice. The hospitaleros here are making dinner for us and they are busy cooking as I write. I doubt that I will last much longer than the meal as I am well and truly tired after walking around the town. And today´s lesson? Its mostly about letting go and learning to go with the flow. Don´t ask me why, but its what comes to mind as I write this. I think I will wander down to the dorm and let my snores fall in sync with the others for an hour or so.