Dublin - August 13

You are probably wondering why I am posting from Dublin... As it happens my stepfather is rather ill in the hospital, and it seems prudent to curtail my wanderings and return to help give him some support to get better. So, I am postponing the balance of this walk to another time - to be determined. While I feel a little sad do this, I am happy to have spent a nice week in Spain with my nephew; we both enjoyed the experience very much and Jonathon has proven himself to be a terrific walker and a great companion as well.

We leave our journey in the little city of Portugalete, 20 km to the west of Bilbao. It was a tough walk getting there, with much up and down along the way through industrial areas, apartment blocks and farm fields alike. Not only did we have to navigate land but had the challenge of which kindly citizen to listen to about our route. At one point it was evident that there were two different routes we could take; no less than 3 gentlemen stopped to offer their opinions in rapid fire Spanish about what would be best for us. I felt a little like a pinball being zinged back and forth, but happy as I knew our guides had the best of intentions. This is a common theme in Spain; people are only too happy to offer help and direction.

Portugalete is a very old port, dating back to the 1100's and it boasts the first transport bridge in the world. It spans the river about 500 feet and carries up to 6 cars and about 200 people. If you are brave (and possibly stupid like me) you can take an elevator up to the top of the bridge and walk along it from one side to the other. We did this and I have to say I rather enjoyed it, though I did feel a bit wobbly at the knees at times. The views were spectacular as you can see from the images.

This morning we took the train back to Bilbao - a speedy 15 minute journey, versus the 4 hours it took us yesterday. Then it was off to the airport and on to Dublin. So until next time, thanks for tuning in. Miranda

Bilbao - August 11

You can run but you can´t hide... last night when we went back to the Albergue we were literally funneled down into the church on the auspices of having our credentials (pilgrim passports) stamped - however, it was really just to get us to go to a service. The sneaky monkeys literally pushed us into the choir nave (?) to listen to gods word, but I refused and we ducked out. Now don´t get me wrong. I enjoy a good sermon in another language but neither J or I were ready to be bamboozled into sitting through one. Especially when there was beer and pinchos (little treats) to be had at the local tabernas.

We arrived in Bibao at about 1130 and were installed at a pension by 1:00 pm. Then it was off to the amazing Guggenheim for the afternoon. That Frank Gehry is an amazing man and there are some equally incredible works of art in the building - all rather mind blowing actually. Bilbao is a nice enough city but quite like many other European cities when you take away the Guggenheim, I think.

A highlight this evening was our prowl for dinner in the food district of the city. An interesting Chinese restaurant displayed a menu for our perusal no doubt translated from Chinese to Spanish and then Spanish to English. Jonathon´s favorite was ´Chicken wrap up with sesamo´ and I was caught between ´Squids bobbies´ and ´Pellets of fried greeness .´ Photgraphic proof to follow... Needless to say we did not dine there, but it provided much amusement for the course of the evening.

Logroño - August 10

I sometimes forget that I am a little clausterphobic... (sp?)but I was reminded in the small hours of this morning, when I awoke and perceived the air in the room to be somewhat depleted of oxygen. Someone had closed the big windows at the other end of the dorm and the nice breeze that had been moving through earlier was gone. It was hot, and there at least 14 other people in the room using up my air! I calmed myself by ripping my sleeping bag open and planning an exit from the room. It was unecessary though as I drifted back into a half sleep and waited for the morning light.

I didn´t have to wait for the light because by 0545 people were getting up and ready to sprain their ankles from walking in the dark. Even Jonathon was up by 0630, and we were on the trail shortly afterward. I don´t fully understand why people want to be up so early but I think it boils down to two things; beating the heat of the day and getting a bunk at the next albergue. I don´t mind the heat, but I´m not big on the competition for beds and vow never to come back to the Camino Frances in early August. Tonight we are installed in a place in Logroño which Jonathon said looks like a prison - I have to agree with him. But, it beat lining up for two hours to get into the other Parochial Albergue... I hope. They wanted to give us mats on the floor but I said my back would not likely tolerate a mat (and no my nose is not growing) so he showed us to the special dorm with real bunkbeds and bars on the windows. I think they would like us to join them at mass later on, but I plan on eating at that time, so they will have to do that without our company.

The walk today was mainly through farms and vineyards. It was pretty in the early morning light and stayed cool almost all the way to Logroño, so we were here by about 1200. Logroño is a pretty city with lots of pedestrian malls so it is quiet and easy to get around by foot. Unfortunately the museum is closed for renovation so that leaves blogging here at the Hotel Marques de Vellajo, the park and eating ice cream for this afternoon. Later, we´ll head back to the Albergue for a change of clothes and provided they let us out again, we´ll head out to one or more of the many little tapas bars that line the backstreets of the city. There must be over 100 of them and as such, it will be a good chance for us both to try some local cuisine. The bus leaves at a leisurely 0930 tomorrow for Bilbao, so we can let the rest of the pilgrims in our luxury dorm get under way before climbing out our bunks.

Torres del Rio - August 9

Another lovely day on the Camino de Frances. We left Estella early this morning after probably the first decent nights sleep since we arrived here. The rock band in the square a block away shut down by 1030 pm and people stopped feeding the recycling bin with wine bottles about the same time.

Weather was overcast all day; perfect for walking at a decent pace. It was a quiet kind of day -with a suitably Sunday kind of feel to it. I am experimenting with a kind of walking meditation - basically mind clearing - to see what that is like. Today seemed like a good day to start.

Tonight we are staying at the Albergue Marieta in Torres del Rio, making it an easy 20km walk into Logroño tomorrow morning. There are many people here - about 60 - but I feel well able to cope with the snoring and other noises that await us this evening. It is nice for Jonathon as there are several english speaking young men for him to connect with.

Tomorrow we will stay in Logroño and head to Bilbao the following morning, by bus! That should be strange - you get used to moving at a certain pace and being on a bus will seem very fast. I should be able to post some photos from Logroño as I expect the computer equipment will be a little more modern there? We´ll see...

Estella - August 8

Just as I had hoped, we are here in Estella tonight. Estella is a pretty little city, with lots of old buildings and antique shops. There are many more of those than there are places to stay, actually. We arrived about 2:30pm, which is relatively early by my previous experience, but all the albergues here were either full or not of a standard where one would want to put one´s head down. So, we are at a pension, on a ´quiet´plaza. Well, quiet by Spanish standards I suppose, but still full of people and the regular sound of breaking glass from the recycling bin, which is located conveniently beneath our window! At least it is clean, well sort of... and the senora is pleasant, so that is something. Unfortunately, there is a rock band playing later this evening, in the plaza one block away. I am thankful for earplugs...

Today´s walk was relatively flat, meandering through wine country. The grapes are not yet ripe so there was no point in pilfering any, but the vines are lovely to walk past, nonetheless. There were quite a few people on the trail as well, but it was never congested. So far, we are the only Irish or Canadians on the trail that I know of. Yesterday Jonathon was delighted to meet Desmond from Scotland who spoke English to him. The balance of the folks have been either Spanish, French or German, so the conversation is somewhat limited for us both. Still, most people have a friendly word or two to say as they pass.

Jonathon continues to impress me with his ability to walk long distances without any apparent fatigue. I wish I had his endurance, but I suppose being three times his age I am doing alright. Tomorrow´s destination is one of three locations - Los Arcos, Sansol or Torres del .... (um I forgot). If I can find a map, I will try and upload a map so that these names are more meaningful.

Puente la Reina

Keep on keeping on is a little more than I had has turned into planned for. Crazy Irish Canadians out in the afternoon sun soon found themselves in the pretty town of Puente la Reina, but without a place to stay... Out comes my friend Mr Visa and its a night at the Hostal Bidean for us. Imagine the luxury of real towels (travel towels just move the water around) and a hair dryer (my favorite) and our own room with our own beds and our own sheets.

The plan was to spend the better part of the day in Pamplona and then stay in Cizur Menor but you know how these things evolve, and my nephew has turned in to Marathon Man; his energy is incredible! I had thought I would be waiting for him frequently, but not so. In fact, the opposite is true. His feet aren´t even sore and his legs aren´t stiff anymore. Ah, the luxury of youth... Any how, we passed our destination about 1230 and just kept on going. There was a brief moment after climbing Del Perdon when I thought we might stay in a small town who´s name I cannot recall right now, but the Albergue was stuffy and cramped and neither of us could face it. Thus, here we are in Puente la Reina. I am exhausted and J is ´grand´to quote him directly.

Having said all that, we both enjoyed our morning in Pamplona and the ensuing climb up Del Perdon, where the views are a spectacular 360 degrees. (see before and after photos above). Tomorrow´s destinaion is Estella, a modest 23 km down the trail. This is where we will stay without question, barring a full Albergue!

Pamplona - August 7

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Leaping Lizards - its a long way from Burgete to Pamplona, but somehow we managed to find ourselves on the outskirts of this lovely city last night. The weather was cooler yesterday - closer to 30 than 35, we thought, and the walking was good - a little up a little down - and some of the in between, but fortunately it was mostly shaded and later in the day the wind came up to help keep us cool. I think it must be one of the nicest parts of this walk, largely through forest ridges.

I had my first taste of my favorite Spanish things yesterday - Cafe con leche and Tortilla, my preferred breakfast (and lunch) items. The crowds have thinned out a little, too and there were many points during the day when there was no one on the trail but me, making it entirely peaceful. Jonathon and I have worked out a system where one walks in front of the other and then waits at the beginning of the next village, as we have differing paces. This works well as we each have the opportunity to walk at our own pace and then meet up for a chat every once and a while.

We arrived at the Albergue in Trinidad de Arre around 5pm yesterday and were both wrecked. But the friendly welcome from the Pere there soon had us feeling better. We dined a la supermarket with baguette, cheese and some guajada, which a cross between yoghurt and cream cheese (yum), for dessert. It was lights out early at the albergue but sleep was illusive. One of the peregrinos had a serious hack and spent the entire night coughing with a funny aha, ha, aha, ha kind of sound. J slept through it but I was not so lucky and this morning was ready for a good nights rest. Not an option, so we´ll just keep on keeping on.

August 5 - Burgette

Holy frijole its HOT! Thankfully, I sit in a cool room at the lovely hotel in Burgette, where they have kindly allowed me to use the internet. Jonathon is back at the Casa Rural (like a B&B without the Breakfast) where we are staying tonight, napping, and it is a well deserved nap, I must say. The bed in a private room is also well deserved as neither of slept much last night in St Jean, each apparently due to the other snoring. Try and figure that one out...

We left St Jean Pied du Port this morning about 7:20 am and spent the next 6 hours climbing about 1000 metres over the Pyrennes in very warm temperatures. Jonathon was a real trooper. Despite a crampy leg, excessive perspiration and a pesky auntie, who kept checking to see how he was doing, he wanted to carry on to our preferred destination - Burgette when we could have given up 5 km earlier in Ronscesvalles. We both survived the ordeal without blisters, heat exhaustion or any real grumpiness, which is so easy to have in high temperatures. How hot was it? Well, I´m not sure, but I would guess that it was at least 34 degrees today.

The camino is busy this year - St Jean was crawling with backpackers and we must have passed over 100 people today en route to Burgette. I hope we can avoid large crowds over the next few day as it takes away from the experience when you are queing on the trail! Our destination tomorrow is still up in the air - it depends primarily on two things: weather and body aches. But all being well, we will shoot for Villava, which is about 30 km down the track. This means an early start so we can avoid the worst heat of the day, as well as the crowds of peregrinos.

I have some photos from the day and if I can sneak back in here later, I will try and upload a few for your viewing pleasure. Miranda

Pre Walk Note

On or about the 5th of August, 2009, my nephew Jonathon and I, will set out from St Jean Pied de Port in France, making the trek across the foothills of the Pyrennes mountains into Spain. I made the same walk this time last year along the Camino Frances. However, unlike last year, we will turn right at the city of Pamplona or Logrono and head north for Bilbao, home of the Guggenheim Museum. At Bilbao, I will say adios to Jonathon who will fly home from there, and then continue on alone along the north coast toward Santiago on my own. I hear its hot in Spain this year, but hopefully coastal breezes will help to keep things manageable. This is the road less travelled, so it may be more difficult to make posts and find places to stay.... so if you like, stay tuned and I'll do my best to keep you informed about my adventures on the Camino del Norte!

Miranda