Santiago de Compostela Km 0

Its been an interesting day. I felt sad having to stop my walk and get on the bus, and at one point I nearly jumped off and started walking, but thought better of it as I had several things I wanted to do in Santiago today. Now that I am here, it is fine, but as much as I am looking forward to seeing all my friends and co-workers, I can honestly say I would prefer to stay here for another few weeks, perhaps even longer....

Vespers at Sobrano

But on to more interesting things. Last night after I finished my post, I went to Vespers as promised. What a treat - those monks are polished in their delivery of the mass, and have beautiful voices. Following Vespers, I had dinner with 3 peregrinos I have seen on an off for the last couple of weeks. We had a super meal together and exchanged photo ops and email addresses, as people are prone to do on the Camino.

Ute and Michael from Germany

Today I attended the Pilgrims mass at the big cathedral in Santiago, so I have had my fix of masses for the forseeable future. The cathedral was absolutely packed with people from all over the world on Pilgrimage... wow. I skipped out as they were giving communion and went to a wonderful restaurant for a giant lunch. The rest of the day I spent wandering the streets of Santiago and preparing for my flight tomorrow. Sister with a sparkling voice leading the choral side of Mass

In Santiago
Market in Santiago

Streets of Santiago

The first course of my giant lunch -tasted better than it looked

It has been an amazing 3 weeks for me; absolutely action packed and rich in every way. Much of it was not easy, but it was all worthwhile and I would trade a second of it away. Ok, well maybe Frederico´s early morning plastic bag rustling and zippering activities. I met many memorable people along the way and will always value the care and friendship I received from them. As you can imagine, I feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity to make this trip and I look forward to the opportunity to come back to Spain again. Thanks for letting me share the experience with you; I hope my next venture will be the Camino Via de la Plata which runs from Sevilla directly north to Santiago - but I think I will give my feet a little rest first.

Sobrado dos Monxes Km 62

The hospitaleras at Miraz

Yesterday I walked 34km from Vilalba to the Albergue at Miraz, which is run by the

Confraternity of St James in the UK, a group dedicated to providing information and help for the Camino de Santiago. What is particularly nice about the Albergue at Miraz, is that there are hospitaleros (volunteer hosts) there to greet you, and generally look after things. In fact, there were three lovely women hospitaleras there, all English speaking, which was a treat for me as I have not had the chance to speak much English for many days. There is no restaurant in Miraz, so you have to bring your own food and then cook it at the Albergue. I decided on making a

hot meal as I am really tired of Bocadillos (sandwiches). I was able to purchase and carry the ingredients at Baamonde, which is the nearest grocery store 15 km before Miraz, to make an awesome lentil stew.

A church appears from nowhere

The walk was long but very beautiful, with pastoral views, rolling hills and no rain! I am in

an area of Spain called Galicia, which interestingly, has strong celtic ties and looks very m

uch like Ireland. Here in Galicia, I have often felt as though I was stepping back in time. In spite of the many mod cons people have, the country life preserves many of the traditional ways; widows still wear black, the fire is main source of heat, people get their water from wells, grown their own vegetables, grind their own grain and store it in little buildings called Horreos. It is both a fascinating and humbling experience to see this more primitive (?) way of life in an otherwise cosmopolitan country.

Entrance to the Abbey at Sobrado de Monxes

From Miraz this morning, it was an easy and rain-free 26 km to Sobrado, where there is a Cistercian Abbey, alive and well with Monks and all. The Abbey has an Albergue and I had planned to stay there but there was so much mold in the dormitory that I began wheezing almost immediately and sadly, I had to leave (really - I was looking forward to staying there). I plan to attend Vespers at the Abbey this evening. Vespers is essentially a Mass that is sung rather than spoken. I have been to Vespers twice before and enjoyed the experience very much; I expect this to be no different.

Miranda at the 100km maker

Sadly, today was my last day of walking, as I have literally run out of time to walk into Santiago without missing my flight back to London on Friday. I had considered trying to walk the 88

km from Miraz over the two days that I had, but I think it would be foolish given the state of my feet, which seem to sprout a new crop of blisters every couple of days and are quite fed up with the whole situation. They are applauding the decision to climb aboard the bus tomorrow morning, but I haven´t told them yet that I plan to spend most of the day walking around Santiago, which is a beautiful city, with excellent shopping! Still, it will be without a backpack, so that should help the situation.

Storks looking for babies

Once again I am posting the blog at the courtesy of a generous hotelier, but the computer is not equipped to accept my photo link so there are no photos. ( I have since added the images MR)

Dry in Vilalba Km 120

Modern Sculpture in Ribadeo

The view from Gontan

OK, I haven´t drowned yet and I haven´t needed a lifejacket, though Wellington Boots and rapelling gear would have been handy a few times. The night before last was spent in a little hamlet called Gontan. No store or bar within a few km, but a lovely little Albergue with a menu from the nearest bar, which actually delivered food! It was very cool up there in the hills and as much as I love my equatorial sleeping bag, it wasn´t going to cut the mustard. Without a word, Teresa from Wellington NZ, came over with her silk sleeping bag liner and gave it to me for the night. What I would have done without it, I don´t know... Angels everywhere!

Albergue in Gontan

By 1000 I was in Ribadeo, where I took my last view of the sea as the route turns in land now. I was stinking - sorry but its true - and much of my clothing was wet, so I took the opportunity of being a reasonably big town to get some laundry done. The woman at the Lavanderia was a pet, let me use the bathroom to get changed into my less stinky clothes, and had it all washed and dried with an hour and a half. Just enough time to have a walk around the town, drink a couple of Cafe con Leches and get some food for the walk ahead to Gontan.

A friendly face along the way

From Gontan, the walk was long and fraught with danger and adventure. Not only was the road washed out in places, but a significant mudslide (due to logging) wiped out a section of the trail. Fortunately, the valient Roberto from Modena was close by and able to use his walking sticks to blaze a trail up and around the slide area. I followed at a safe distance, surviving the ordeal with only minor scratches where the blackberries tried to stop me, and stings from Nettles on my legs, which are in abundance here. Fortunately my mother taught me that the antidote for Nettle stings, Burdock, always grows close to the nettles themselves, so I grabbed me a few leaves and neutralised the stings within minutes.

Mudslide outside of Gontan

The Road is long and missing, too!

Not only was the walk long, but it was also uphill for about 15 km. I felt like I must be very close to the gates of heaven, but in reality it was only a 400metre climb from sea level. Still, after 32 km I was exhausted arriving in Gondan (not the same as Gontan), only to find out that the Albergue there was full. As you know, this was no hardship for me and I used the opportunity to check into a Pension with clean white sheets and my own bathroom. My feet and legs were so sore, that I finally took a Tylenol to try and put the constant thobbing in check. It kind of worked...

Today, the path was a little more gentle; mostly dry and not too much mud to traverse. As always on the Camino, there was something to smile about. I was waylayed by an elderly gentleman who insisted on kissing my hand and both cheeks. I couldn´t understand much of anything he said, but he seemed happy and he did wish my Buen Viaje, as many people here do. This afternoon in Vilalba, I searched high and low for internet access, even pretending to be a guest at the lovely Parador here but alas, they don´t have computers there for guests. Its understandable given the age of the building - 1600´s. I was about to give up when I stumbled across a computer store and that is where I sit now, using one of their best models! No charge, just another example of the amazing kindness of the people here in Spain.!

Unfortunately, I am running out of time to complete my walk and I have had to come to terms with the fact that I will be catching a bus from somewhere on Wed evening to Santiago... no compostela this time. Still, its been a wonderful experience and there are still two more days of wet adventure and blisters in new and unusual places ahead!

Tapia de Casariego KM 206

Just outside Tapia de Casariego

You may be thinking that I may have drowned in the torrential rain we are experiencing here at the moment, but in reality I just haven´t been anywhere near a computer for a few days. In fact, I haven´t hardly been anywhere with a name that appears on a map. And as usual, I have been lost.

The old and the new side by side

After leaving Magdallena, it took me 2.5 hours to find the village I had hoped to stay in the previous night. Its just as well I stopped when I did. I had a cup of coffee there to celebrate finding it and then moved off toward my destination for the day, Cadavedo. The first part of the day passed without incident, but by lunch time, it was lashing with rain again. And I mean LASHING! I was heartened to find a sign on the road with a message for me (see below).

Go Ginny!

Ginny is what my Camino friends from 2008 called me, so I took it as a sign to be brave and keep going, despite the inclment weather. In fact, there were signs such as this for several miles and I was delighted each time I saw one. Eventually I was soaked through my Giant nylon Poncho - next time I will get one of those lightweight water proof jobs, not nylon.

On the way to Cadavedo

By the time I got to the Albergue in Cadavedo, I was a pathetic sight. But I was bouyed (no pun intended) by the reception I got from my fellow peregrinos, who welcomed me with a great cheer. The weather let up long enough for a group of us to visit the mini super market without drowning, where we bought the makings of a fine meal. Joachim from Barcelona whipped it all up, and soon we were enjoying a tasty salad, fresh bread and beer (wine for most of them but beer for me). The Albergue itself was very basic, and could use a good cleaning, but I was happy to be there, out of the rain and in very nice company. There were 8 of us who stayed there; two women from Czech, four Spaniards, including Frederico from Mallorca, an Italian, and me.

As it turns out one of the group actually had left a message for me on a way marker saying "Go Miranda Go", but I did not see it. And they gave me a new name because of my quick walking pace - Turbo Miranda. Still, my pace doesn't seem to get me any further ahead; they were all at the Albergue in Cadavedo well ahead of me... hmm perhaps I should slow down.

A fine meal at the Albergue in Cadavedo

None of my clothing dried over night, so this morning, I put the wet stuff in a plastic bag (its still there) and doned fresh dry clothes for the day ahead. And if the rain the day before was lashing, today it was torrential. Really... I would not have had the courage to walk on my own, but Roberto from Modeno was game to try and reach Piñera with me, so we gave it a go. Piñera is a small village about 31km from Cadavedo. I think the others were betting we wouldn´t make it, but we did. It was one of the situations - you either laugh or cry and I figured there was enough water around so I laughed the day away, thinking of the ridiculousness of the situation. The rain was literally coming at us sideways with the wind behind it. Each big truck that passed gave us a shower from another direction. Rivers were swollen to overflowing and I began to have concerns about flash floods, but really, what can you do except find a little tune to sing and keep going going. Many songs about rain went through my mind, songs I thought I had forgotten... raindrops keep falling on my head....

Luarca

We arrived at the Albergue, an old schoolhouse, around 3:30 pm. There was one other person there - a young german man. Eventually, two others arrived, also, german, and the clotheslines strung around the dormitory made it look like a little shanty town. I had a great sleep and felt preapared for anything this morning.

By end of day today, the weather was not quite as bad; the rain actually let up for a few minutes here and there. The interesting thing about the rain is that my feet are enjoying it immensely. They have been perfectly happy, sloshing about in the cool water that has invaded my shoes. Who would have guessed? I hope to be able to dry some clothing tonight. I believe the Albergue here has an oven so you can guess I´m going to try and be creative with that. Wish me luck drying and not burning, my clothes!

Magdallena

Soto de Luiña

At last report I was in the air conditioned library at Aviles. I went back to the Albergue after a good wander and had a great visit with the other peregrinos and a decent nights sleep. It was just what I needed. Even Frederico from Mallorca was there and he was much more sensitive about his zipper activities this morning, taking his pack out of the dorm to get organised. At the moment I am sitting in the bar of the hotel I am forced to stay at due to the large amounts of precipitation that burst forth this afternoon. I was the proverbial drowned rat and glad to get a room and breakfast for 24 euro here at the Marino Hotel. The computer I am using has no return key and no way to backspace so its going to be one big paragraph. Still its nice to have a computer to use. Not sure what the weather is going to be like tomorrow but I hope it rains itself out tonight, otherwise I will drown for sure. The main thing is that I am safe and dry and I have a bidet and a tub in my room so I can wash my clothes and soak my body, too. Sorry about all the random letters that follow I can´t erase anything. I´m not sure where I will land tomorrow, but with any luck I will be able to blog a little better. Miranda

Aviles KM 326

Here I am at the lovely Casa de Cultura in Aviles, where there are about 20 computer terminals and no charge to use them. For the first time today, it is quiet, peaceful and cool with AC and all! I have to say this has been the most bizarre and difficult day for me on the Camino del Norte so far, but aside from whatever challenges I had, I am safe and grateful for everything.

My day started with me being distracted and became progressively difficult from there. I left the hotel I was staying at, forgetting my map and credencial (Pilgrim´s Passport) and had to double back about 1.5 km through the Monday morning traffic of Gijon to get them. Then I got lost trying to leave the city. It was at this point I noticed how unfriendly the people were - it happens in cities - but eventually I was saved by a nice Argentian man who saw me scrutinising my map and came to point me in the right direction.

The city quickly became an industrial zone and the road beside me with busy with big trucks belching out diesel fumes. Then a local man walking ahead of me began vomiting blood. I stopped to ask him if he was alright and he said he was, but I somehow I doubt it... Walking at the side of the road felt particularly dangerous today as the traffic whizzed past me due to the fact that I was forced to walk on the right hand side of the road, with the traffic behind me. Its much safer to be able to see whats coming in case you need to jump into the ditch, but this was not an option as there was no shoulder on the left side for much of the time.

The day went on much like this. So, by the time I got to Aviles, my ears were ringing with the traffic and industrial noise, my feet were complaining bitterly, I smelled like an old truck from fumes and I was completely frazzled. At the Albergue - and yes, I am staying there tonight - the Hospitalero caught me crying and he immediately put his hand on my face to dry my tears and gave me a kiss on both cheeks. He went and got me a special sheet for my bunk - the others don´t have one - and a blanket to make sure I am warm tonight... He must have realised that I am a Peregrina Princess! Now, how can you feel badly when there is this type of care? So there, I´m all cheered up again.

Tomorrow is a major up and down hike - up 200 metres, down 150 metres, up 200 metres, down 200 metres and so it goes... And it is 35 - 40 km long to the next town with an Albergue. Not that this part is important to me, but, if I want to make it to Santiago by the 17th of June, I have to put myself in high-gear for the next 10 days. This means walking at least 30 km a day. I think I can do it, but I am also resolved to the fact that I may not be able to pull it off. Getting a Compostella (certificate of acheivement more or less) is not that important to me.

Today was rich for lessons, but the thing that keeps coming home to me is the need for acceptance of what is. In other words, I can´t control what is going on around me - only how I deal with it. This is a big one - enough to last me the rest of my days here,and possibly a lifetime.

Gijon KM 350.5

The Harbour at Gijon

Hello from beautiful Gijon! Its been a couple of days since I have been able to post anything, but I think I needed a little break from writing as I was feeling a little blocked. Now I have lots to say, but little time to say it in!

Going up 400 metres en route to Gijon

In short, the scenery here on the Camino Del Norte continues to be spectacular. I don´t recall if I mentioned it before, but it is much like Ireland, only there isn´t as much rain here. Having said that it has been misty for the last two days, but this is ideal for walking as I have never felt too warm.

Camino Real

After leaving Ribadesella on Saturday morning, I walked about 28 km mostly along the coast, much of which was on the Camino Real -no, it isn´t a car, but the old road. Despite the uneveness of the stones, it was a thrill to know I was walking on such an old trail. And to prove it, there were signs everywhere say "Camino Real". About 4:30pm I landed at the Albergue in Sebrayo, where I decided to stay despite the fact that there were no crispy white sheets or and in-house massage therapist. And then I changed my mind... but here´s what happened. I paid my 3 euro, picked up my pack (which by the way has developed a fragrance all of its own and it isn´t that nice), walked around the corner into the dormitory and there standing before me was a man without any clothing on. This was not what I wanted to see at that time and thus I averted my gaze to the bunks. There, many people were resting after a long day and along with me and my pack the smell was more than I could bear. So, I took a shower, put clean clothes on, donned my pack, thanked the hospitalero, did not take my money back when she offered it, and walked another 6km to Villaviciosa where I found a good Pension with a quiet room for 15 Euros with - a bathtub, albeit a small tub but a tub nonetheless! What excitement, what joy... my body was so greatful for a good soak.

I had a restful night there and set off about 7:15 am today for Gijon. For the first time, there was mud on the trail, which I slipped in (now I know why mud wrestling is such a popular sport). And, I nearly, but didn´t, got lost following a myopic Spanish man on a treacherous logging path. I had to catch up to him to let him know I thought he was on the wrong road and that I was trusting my map. The problem is that this trail is not well marked and you really do need a map - its easy to get lost. Arriving in Gijon about 2:30 I had some pinchos and mineral water at a nice Irish Pub - not sure about the Irish part, but hey, the Pinchos were great. Pinchos are like little appetizers - tasty and perfect for after a long walk.

I had considered walking on but some Italians I met looked at my like I had two heads and asked me "why would you do that?", so I listened to the voices of reason and here I am. Besides, my feet continue to complain bitterly and needed a break. They are like a couple of burning logs at the end of my legs every day... will they ever improve? As you can see below, I have found a new use for a bidet. It makes an excellent foot soaker - I highly recommend it.

Soaking tired feet at the Hotel Pasaje

Now that my feet have had some pampering the in bidet, I am ready to further explore this pretty city. Tomorrow I am walking just 21.5 km to Aviles, where there is reportedly a truly special Albergue, which I do plan to stay in. Until next time...